We do have some LEDs that would work with this setup. They aren't actually on our website yet, but we do have a slightly different version already on our website and a tutorial about them which you can check out as an example.

You would be using the Kaimana Mini system, you wouldn't even need to use a breakout if you use the 20pin header on your Brook PS4 board. For the hacked fighting commander you would however need to use a Kaimana Mini Breakout. I'll link both tutorials below, one that you use the breakout, and the other which you don't. It is important to note that the Kaimana Mini can support as many LED inputs as you want, but only 15 inputs will respond to touch and change animation. For your setup you'd want two Kaimana Minis (they are only 25 or 30 which isn't bad compared to some LED drivers like the Ultimarc ULtimate I/O that costs 100).

Also important to note that you would need to tap into the 5volt power source on your Fighting Commander which involves a bit of soldering (unless you have a power supply in your cabinet you can grab 5volts off of).



It's important to note that everything on this setup would be the same besides the LEDs themselves. In this tutorial they're designed for Sanwa buttons or Seimitsu PS-14-K buttons. The LEDs you'e be getting just have a different design for how they connect to the button. The ones we'd include are for IL Convex buttons which are long enough to be used on your control panel. You'd want to use the 20g Zippys also known as the Ultra Light Zippy Microswitches on these buttons to have the lightest feel, that or the Rollie Leaf Switch. They'll feel light, but nothing will really ever feel as light as the Sanwa in terms of screw on buttons that will fit a 3/4 inch thick control panel.


Regarding an RGB LED joystick i'll link the tutorial for that below

https://paradisearcadeshop.com/levers-sanwa/2053-paradise-jlf-rgb-led-joystick-long-shaft.htmlyou'd want the long shaft version since your control panel is so thick